Catchy title eh? Well, since leaving the slopes of Volcano Villarrica in Chile, i've covered a lot of ground. Heading once again back into Argentina - the passport is rapidly filling with stamps from these two countries. First stop over the border was the 'Choclolate Kingdom' of the Argentinian Lake District. A few days in San Martin de Los Andes and then onwards to the tourist mecca of Bariloche. Both swamped with the most spectacular chocolate shops i've ever seen.
On the first (of many) visits to a chocolate shop in San Martin, I was unprepared. The assistant asked what I wanted and I just stood there staring at 50 different chocolate options, unable to decide. She just stood.... waiting, which made things worse. I think its a fairly safe bet to say that I visited a chocolate shop at least once every day during my stay in the area. I was beginning to suspect that the nearby lakes and hills may also be made out of chocolate.
Faced with a potential life of obesity and diabetis I decided to leave Bariloche and extend my diet beyond chocolate. I set off for the Atlantic coast in search of Whales (not to eat of course!)
The coastal town of Puerto Madryn is a town with welsh heritage which was first settled in 1886. However, it is the towns proximity to the Valdes Peninsular which draws the majority of visitors. The peninsular is a wildlife haven for Penguins, Elephant Seals, Sealions, Guanacos, Orcas and a variety of Whales. Perhaps MOST famous for those scenes of Orcas coming up onto the beaches trying to snatch seal pups (March/April).
The wildlife in this area is seasonal, particularly the Southern Right Whales which spend most of their feeding time in Antarctica before their annual shindig begins in late May around Peninsular Valdes. By all accounts, in the peak whale season, its common to see anywhere between 6 and 20 whales frolicking in the bay. My timing here was not the best because I arrived at the end of the Orca season and just before the Southern Right Whale season. However, I was lucky enough to see one early arrival (believed to be an over enthusiastic young male - much like myself I guess :-)) who spent quite a while leaping from the water in an awesome breaching display.
Although, my timing was off for the Whales, the Sealions are year round patrons and I took the opportunity to get back in the water (albeit, rather cold water) after a few months away from scuba diving. Just two of us, myself and the guy from the dive shop. Thats just the two of us AND around 25 sealions! Many young pups and females who were very happy to play. Chewing my fins, hood, hand. They would swim towards you and stop just inches away from your face, staring you in the eye, looking rather puzzled as if to say... "so what are you then?"
I was truely stunned. It was one of those moments when your jaw really does drop open, which is not great when you are trying to keep a Regulator in your mouth ( I would use the word 'gob-smacked' except I know how much my Dad hates it :-)) If you haven't already done so then have a look at the photos in the 'Diving Photos' gallery. DIVING WITH SEALIONS PHOTOS
Onwards to the Capital city of Buenos Aires. Just life in the big city (but with more Tango than most) - Bars until 6am and beyond, good restaurants, shopping... a chance to catch up with 'civilisation' after the desolation of Patagonia. And, a stepping stone on to Urugauy. Ships leave regularly from Buenos Aires to Colonia in Uruguay and this was exactly where I was headed.
As I arrived in Colonia I went through the usual border crossing process that I had been through so many times before, but this one had a little surprise. I placed my bag on the counter for the customs search and opened it for the typically stern looking customs official. As he started to search the bag he asked where I was from, to which I obviously answered "England". He stopped, looked up and gave me one of those suspicious 'customs official' stares (probably something they learn in Customs College) and asked (in Spanish)..."The Falklands, Argentinian or English?!" Now customs officials are not the best people to upset, its bad enough having to have your BAG searched, I certainly didn't want it to go any further than that. I was trying not to laugh at his question but decided to play the stupid tourist card (something I carry off very well :-)). I told him that I didn't understand any Spanish (not a million miles from the truth!) ... finally, he cracked up and started laughing! Customs humor eh? I think he was Uruguayan anyway.
Like the towns of Patagonia, the towns of Uruguay can be ghostly quite in the off season. Non more so than Punta del Diablo in the east of Uruguay. Here I was the ONLY gringo in town and passed a few very pleasant days on long EMPTY beaches watching dolphins play in the bay.
The Capital city, Montevideo is a fairly average capital without note. However, two hours from the capital lies Punta del Este - BOOMING holiday resort - or at least i'm sure it would be if it wasn't the off season. Looking at the number of closed bars and clubs, it certainly had the potential. It was in a Youth Hostel in Punta del Este that I met Julio. Julio was not your typical Youth Hostel patron in that he was 78. My room mate and a very interesting man. He was from Buenos Aires, but had just bought a small flat in Punta del Este. He spoke excellent English, which was just as well as I speak atrocious Spanish, and had many stories to share. Although the holiday resort of Punta del Este was not really my kind of place, I enjoyed my time there. Which just goes to show that travel is AS MUCH about the people you meet as it is the places you go.
One morning at breakfast Julio declared...."Russ, you and I are both MILLIONAIRES ..... in TIME!" I like that outlook on life :-)